Front Roll Bar Drop Links (again)

[tiny]

I know there are several posts on this subject, but I have a barely discernable knock from the front end of my galaxy evident during normal driving, not when turning etc.

 

What I was wondering is, is the play in these link arms always blatantly obvious?

Mine dont seem to have play in them but I suppose that as im saying it isnt an obvious knock so I guess the amount of play would be directly proportional to the loudness/feel of the knock.

 

Im taking a long trip with a crew of 6 quite soon and i'd like to make sure the cars up to the job! Even if this isnt a safety issue, now ive noticed it I cant ignore it.

 

Ive found a pair of link rods for less than

[NikpV]

on ours the knock was much more pronounced going over speed humps etc.

[NikpV]

What I was wondering is, is the play in these link arms always blatantly obvious?

 

 

no only a little play will give the knock, they are easy to change so its probably worth it for

[west]

Dont.Forget.the.ARB.bushes.

 

Probably these makin the noise.

[tiny]

Cheers All, out of interest what are the roll bar bushes like to change?

[tiny]

Its worth saying the link arms are ordered, I will post the resullts.

[Dave-G]

I'm in my third galaxy - and have changed drop links many times... but never found any need to replace ARB bushes

[tiny]

Links delivered within 48hrs and fitted in 30 mins........

 

Result! now i'm driving a quiet Galaxy I realise how bad the knocking actually was!

 

The cost?

[Ivor_E_Tower]

Got a pair of droplinks off-the-shelf from my local factors, who I drive past 4 days a week, on my way home tonight ... under

[tiny]

Couple of hours? No, you'll need less than one, I was suprised at how simple the job was!

 

Although they are identical from left to right, different manufacturers make the bars ever so slightly differently from say OEM stuff.

 

You can do this job without a jack simply turn the steering full lock to the left or right dependant on which side your changing. This gives more than adequate access to the links.

 

My originals had a 18mm nut and a 6mm in-hex (allen key type) stud. The repalcements had a 19mm nut and a 17mm flat sided shaft behind the link.

 

If yours are anything like mine you'll need-

17,18 & 19mm spanners(the 17 being an open ended type) and a 6 mm allen key

 

Most of the time I spent changing mine was walking from the driveway to the shed for the tools!

 

The best part is, this is one of those jobs thats results are immediately evident and immensely satisfying!

[Jeff115]

Hi tiny and Ivor,

I replaced my ARB drop links in March, see here replacing anti-roll bar drop links and there was already some good tips and pics in this topic.

 

I found it easiest to jack the car up and remove the wheel.

 

I've seen on another post that it's advisable to change the bushes also and at the same time.

 

Let us know how you get on, Ivor,

Regards,

Jeff.

[cos 4x4]

did my drop links last year doddle of a job thank god i didn,t let the garage do it cause he reckoned it was the suspension top bush knocking

you live and learn

[Ivor_E_Tower]

Spanner/socket sizes as per Tiny above - unfortunately I cannot undo mine (could not get enough leverage to shift the old nuts) so I will have to book it into the local garage to do the work :-(

[Jeff115]

Ivor,

After removing the wheel and spraying the nuts with WD40, I had to use an extension bar to get clearance out of the wheel arch and then with a torque wrench for additional leverage. This allowed me to initially slacken the nuts before use the allen key etc.

 

Hope this helps, Jeff.

[NikpV]

Agree - spray on the wd40 every day for a week then get some leverage on them

[Ivor_E_Tower]

[graemer]

My last set lasted one year only, about 8,000 miles. Me thinks someone is making alot of money out of these - they are definately not made to last. Replaced the front suspension on my stag last month - the car is 30 years old and some of the components were original - the shocks still passed the bounce test; amazing, but I thought it better to change them anyway. Took them apart and they are very well engineered - you can take the shocks apart and the oil inside and seals were still in great condition.

Wonder how long before I have to do the same on my Galaxy.

[NikpV]

My last set lasted one year only, about 8,000 miles

 

ummm my last set has lasted 45,000 miles and still going strong - changed at 22k

[graemer]

Ah - forgot to mention that the wife is the main driver - perhaps this is the problem!! Apologies to all ladies out there, not what you think; my wife is a very competant and quick driver; on her own she probably gives the car a good thrashing!!

[Masked Marauder]

We have loads of speed bumps in Northampton and mine failed after about 6k! I can't help but think a rubber bush in an eye type would last forever compared to these.

[NikpV]

We have loads of speed bumps in Northampton and mine failed after about 6k! I can't help but think a rubber bush in an eye type would last forever compared to these.

 

 

b*gg*r, brother in law and chinese wife just bought a takeaway in northampton - bang go my drop links :(

[newland1]

Thanks to everyone who added to this thread. Helped me diagnose and change my dodgy drop link in about half an hour. My wheel brace was a perfect fit for the 19mm nuts and being hollow allowed me to slot an iron bar down it to get the extra leverage to shift the thing. Total cost

[brownie]

I'd also like to add my thanks for the diagnosis, was spot-on! got a replacement from a motor factors near work, fitted on saturday morning in 30 mins ('er indoors couldn't believe it! :19: ) .... all is now peaceful and rattle-free!

 

Was the bottom joint, top was ok, and as has been said before, on the car it wouldn't move by a 'hand wiggle', off the car it was clicking in and out, easily 0.5 to 1 mm movement. :19:

 

Next on the list is the Rover 100.... squeaky rear offside, and a blocked grease point, fingers crossed it should be another quick job. :19:

[brownie]

Next on the list is the Rover 100.... squeaky rear offside, and a blocked grease point, fingers crossed it should be another quick job. ;)

 

OK, job done! ;)

 

All fixed and working, I'm on a roll! ;)

 

Cleared the blockage in the grease point, wd40'd the suspension joint (which was locked solid) and gave it a good dose of grease from the gun, until it was oozing from the joints.

Bob's your uncle, job's a goodun! Working suspension! ;)

 

Sorry to bore you with Rover stuff ;) ...... but I'm made-up! ;)

[Mirez]

To those having difficulty removing the old bolts, don't forget that there are forces acting on this joint at any position other then dead level. Therefore if you jack one side or are parked on any kind of incline the anti roll bar will be working and putting pressure on these joints so its best to undo them with the car level and still on its wheels rather then any kind of jack / stands.